Monday, 25 November 2013

Plus size pattern pyramid

There are not one, not even two but yes, three plus size pattern pyramids happening at the moment.

Check them out and enter to win!

Bea's sewing adventures

Sewing with cats

Chris Lucas

Good luck!

Friday, 22 November 2013

Complete Make a Garment a Month November

Well I have a day dress. I've only ever had one day dress before so this is a new experience for me. And while it isn't perfect, I like it. Unfortunately, I don't have any good photos of completed dress:).

So here it is

Looking at the photos, I actually think it may be a little big. I am sooo afraid of making things too small that I think I err on the side of making them too big. What do you think? Too big?

I cut a straight size 18 but I increased the size of the neckline, which also meant I didn't need any kind of closure (although that wasn't why I did it). And I won't do it the same again. I will still increase the neckline slightly but not this much. I also think it has affected the hang of the dress plus it has reduced the visual impact of the upper bodice pieces which in turn affects the proportions of the colour block. Especially since I added the extra length (sorry can't remember exactly how much) to the lower piece. I should have spread the increase proportionally over all pieces. This will also lower the bust darts, which it needs.

It has a CB seam from the original maxi skirt I used. I had wanted to make the 'stripe' of the fabric vertical but there was a faded fold mark in all the wrong places. Hence, keeping the CB seam which also has a tendency to buckle a bit because it is quite thick.

I also think the colour choice for the lower piece is wrong. Either a darker grey or a dark blue would have been better I think. It would have anchored the bottom better.

I also did a completely incorrect forward shoulder adjustment. Instead of starting it at the seam line, I started it at the fabric edge. This completely threw it out.

But it is really well finished (which I of course didn't photograph). It has flat felled seams everywhere.

So adjustments I made;

  • Shorten bust dart (2cm)
  • Increase neckline size (about 1.5cm at shoulder to 3cm at front)
  • Forward shoulder adjustment (2cm)
  • Increased length

What I will do next time;

  • Increase neckline but not as much (1.5cm all round)
  • Correct forward shoulder adjustment
  • Increase length on all pieces (this will also lower bust dart)

And maybe if I'm feeling brave I'll cut a size 16 instead, which of course will probably then need a different set of adjustments.

I am actually in the process of making another one already but this one is for my sister. She chose this fabric

(fabric available here)

Instead of contrasting colours, I am going to run the 'stripes' horizontally on the upper bodice and lower panel, with verticle 'stripes' on the middle piece. 

So what are your thought on the dress? Too big? 

Monday, 18 November 2013

Make a garment a month muslin complete

Well I finally got photos but they're still not pretty I'm afraid. As this is a muslin, albeit a very wearable muslin, I made a shorter version. I used the upper and middle pieces and just left off the lower piece.

Sorry, I told you the pics aren't good. I have in fact worn this out twice but always at night and hence no pics. However, on both occasions I was really comfy wearing it and received many compliments.

I used an old (maybe 15 years old) wrap around skirt and a remnant of black cotton. Of course black is notoriously difficult to photograph, but here are some detail shots nonetheless.

Flat felled seams - everywhere. I figure if you're going to have topstitching, you may as well....

Since this has some Asian influence in the Thai silk fabric, I decided to use a Chinese knot instead of a hook and eye.

Again apologies for the crap photos.

So how does it fit? What needs fixed?

Well, the first problem is even deciding which pattern size to use. If I had used my bust size it would have been a size 24 and then a D cup. This would have been enormous. It would give me something like 25cm of ease! So I used my upper bust instead and made the 18 with D cup. I also graded out to a 20 on the front only, based on the listed finished garment size. This was totally unnecessary.

So for the dress version, I will cut a straight 18. However, I will probably lower the neckline - it really is quite high. And I think I'm going to try my first ever forward shoulder adjustment.

So how are you all going with your challenge garments?

Monday, 11 November 2013

Fabric shopping in Chiang Mai

So on Friday I was in Chiang Mai to visit some friends and just had to sneak in little fabric shopping. And I found a new shop which has great printed northern Thai cottons. I'm going to be going back there for sure.

The first is a great geometric print

And the second has stripes and spots because the stripes are made of spots

Both of these will also be made into V8805

One will be for my sister and one for me. Don't know which yet, I'm letting my sister choose first. I'm nice like that sometimes:)

So now back to my original V8805 dress. I made a wearable muslin tunic version which I wore on Friday night and was very pleased with it. No photos yet but I'll post about it soon.

If you like the fabrics you can find them here in my etsy shop.

Here's to a productive sewing week for everyone....

Wednesday, 6 November 2013

Make a garment a month November plans

Apparently I missed the party the first time round (I wasn't sewing then) but better late then never... I am making Vogue 8805

and I'm making it in this (these)...

The contrasting solids are just cheap ($2.50/m) cotton from my local fabric shop. The main fabric is locally made Thai cotton which is actually a maxi skirt. i.e. a tube of fabric with one seam up the back. I have had it for years so I can't remember where I got it (probably Chaing Mai night bazaar) or what I paid for it (probably about $10).

You can find similar(ish) Thai cottons here in my etsy shop. Have a browse, maybe you'll find something you like.

I also plan to use #makeagarmentamonth on social media so why don't you too, then we can all follow along on Twitter or Instagram or both.

Lots of other plans brewing (that may involve a yellow skirt) but more on that later.

Here's to a productive month everyone.