Style Arc Barb Pants Round 1

This is quite a long post with some very dodgy photos and way too many of my bum - you have been warned!

Well, these have been a very long time in the blogging. Once again (as always) photographs were the stumbling block. Someone recently (sorry but can't remember who) mentioned that they often like garments better after having seen the pics and blogged them. I'm afraid that I am completely the opposite. The pants to follow are a very good example. I made them, wore them, was quite happy with them and then I saw the photos and went "Oh, they don't look like they fit nearly as well as they feel like they fit". I think that this is exacerbated by the fact that I have never seen close up views of me in RTW pants. And these makes certainly fit better than any RTW that I've had recently.

But on to the Barbs. I got this pattern free and you can too by signing up for their newsletter here.

According to their size charts I am between 16 and 18 in the hips but a 20 in the waist. Fortunately for this promo you receive the size requested plus one size either side. I ordered the size 18 and received 16, 18 and 20.

So I made a first hopefully wearable muslin using a size 16 for the back and size 18 for the front. FYI I have comparatively small hips and a very flat bum. I used some very bright red cotton spandex. Which is fabulous fabric by the way, although very bright as you can see.

So this is the back of the size 16 with no alterations. As you can see, there is clearly too much fabric at the top of the thighs. The front in an 18 was also too big. I have taken these apart to recut in a smaller size.

I then made another pair using size 16 both back and front using fairly light stretch denim. I made a flat bottom adjustment using Style Arc's tutorial. I also took 1 cm out of the front crotch depth based one the many tutorials I found. I really can't remember which one I finally used.

Sorry, it's hard to see details with dark colours but obviously they still need to have more fabric removed under my bum. And there's still too much fabric in the crotch as well. However, these are in high wardrobe rotation and are very comfortable. And are usually only seen with a shirt out over them like this.

So then I made version 3 out of the same denim but decided to go for a capri length. I did another flat bottom adjustment (so I took out about 3 cm altogether) and took another 1 cm from the front crotch. I also basically removed the hip curve entirely and took a couple of centimetres off the outside leg seam.

And there is still excess fabric. However, again these are in high rotation and very comfortable. Note that I was not/am not looking for a really close fit as it is much cooler in really hot, humid weather to have a slightly looser fit.

This is also cheap stretch denim and doesn't have great recovery, hence the bagging at the knees. And boy that top is too big and doesn't have enough drape. But that's a story for another day.

I have since also made a pair of jeans using the size 16 Barb with yet more adjustments. So hopefully you'll see those soon. I also now have the pattern in a size 14, which is probably what I should have started with! In fact this experience (and a few other things) distracted me while I did some research into pattern sizing, finished garment sizes and the information provided regarding choosing sizes. What I discovered quite surprised me. I hope to post that in the next day or two and I will be really interested in everyone else's views on that.

Well done for getting to the end of that. Your turn now. Have you tried Barbs? How did you get on?

Not a complete loss

Some of you may remember that I was going to make this

I thought the Tessuti Pia was going to be a relatively straightforward sew. Silly me.

You see in my initial enthusiasm I somehow completely misread the sizing information. The XL has the following measurements; Bust 101 cm, Waist 89 cm, Hip 117 cm.

Ok the waist is too small but I didn't think that would be a problem due to the shape - and it wasn't. And the hip is pretty spot on. But my bust measurement is actually 116 cm. Not a great increase on the 110 cm that I read the pattern as. But a significant increase from the actual 101 cm.

So needless to say my first wearable muslin didn't quite fit - although I think it is salvageable. And I do want to salvage it as I really like the fabric. Actually I was (and am) embarrassed to discover that it is actually a cheap knockoff of this

On Walkabout by Karen Taylor

Which led me to have a closer look at some of the truly amazing Australian Aboriginal print fabric available.

I am actually not that fond of prints - largely because I usually find it so difficult to find ones that I like. I don't like florals or novelty prints. I do like strong, geometric prints. Boy do these aboriginal designs fit the bill. Check these out

So I am now going to order myself some of these fantastic fabrics. You can find them at

Fabrics Downunder

Kullillaart

Aboriginal Fabrics

And for those of us outside of Australia

Fabrics and art which by the way has flat rate international shipping of only $23.95 for up to 9 yards (and really good prices on this fabric).


So the Pia dress has been temporarily shelved while I contemplate the fitting issues. But it has opened my eyes to the wonder of Aboriginal print fabrics so it hasn't been a total loss.

Have you ever used Aboriginal print fabrics? Or are you now tempted? If you have, please leave links in the comments as I'd love to have a look.

Fabulous fabric finds

I really debated whether to post this (warning blatent self-promotion follows). I was/am concerned about boring you, or worse annoying you, with what is basically a post about my Etsy shop. However, it is no secret that I have a shop and since I do sell fabric, I thought that some of you may be interested.

One of my favourite fabric suppliers is a small textile company, Baan Thai, based in Chiang Mai. Not being overly fond of prints, I find that textured fabrics can add interest to what would otherwise be quite plain garments and this place does lots of nice textured cottons. They have also recently created a remnants section, which I discovered with the lovely Lara. So I snapped up some of the more interesting pieces. The captions are linked and will take you to the shop if you want to know more.

Black and charcoal textured cotton

This is so lovely and light and sheer. Yes, you'd probably need a lining.

Black and grey geometric print

My idea of a great print. Not too colourful and very geometric.

Black shirred cotton

I've never actually seen anything like this before. And obviously it isn't the best to photograph.

Blue and grey textured cotton

Fabulous muted colours

Silver grey small seersucker

This actually has been dyed with a bit of a distressed look. They aren't all creases.

Stunning stripes

This cotton voile is so vibrant with a great mix of colours.

Dark red textured cotton

This deep red has a self-check for textural interest.

Striped seersucker

Large seersucker in summer stripes.

Lots of spots

This is actually double gauze and the spots are a steel grey/blue.

So what do you think about posts like this? 

Are you happy to see them every few weeks (after all it is fabric)? 

or 

Do you never want to see another (after all it is just an ad)?

Fabric shopping in Chiang Mai

Last Friday I was fortunate to go fabric shopping in Chiang Mai with the lovely Lara from Thornberry. You can read about it on her blog too if you want more details about Chiang Mai and the shopping experience. Plus of course Lara was in tourist mode so not only did she bring a camera but she actually used it. Unlike me.

It was so nice to meet Lara (and her lovely family - hi everyone!) and to go shopping with someone. This is usually a solitary pursuit since I don't know any other sewists in real life.

As well as buying fabric, we pored over clothes in small, local "boutiques"- checking out the details and how they were designed and made.

I didn't actually buy that much, after all I can go back next week if I wish. And I will be back soon. So what did I buy?

First up, we went to Ban Thai which sells locally produced machine-woven cottons. Both Lara and I bought this

It is black and grey double gauze and the reverse side looks like this

Of course we both immediately said "colour blocking!" So it will be interesting to see what we both do with it. And yes, it is black but I took these at night after waiting for several days for some sunshine. I decided I really needed to just do this now because when the sun does shine I will be very busy photographing all the lovely new fabric I bought for the shop.

I also bought this intriguing fabric which appears to be samples of fancy stitching/machine embroidery/whatever all stitched together. It was impossible to photograph all of it so here are some shots of the individual 'rows'.

And yes that is my shadow. Oops.

Now obviously each section is not very wide but I'm sure that at least some are wide enough to become yokes on my beloved V8805. The narrower ones could be used for neck bands or even hem bands. I'm sure I'll find a use for them.

I also bought some plain black stretch denim which I didn't even bother to photograph. Becuase really it is just black fabric and you all know what it looks like. This will become a pair of Style Arc Barb pants. I have already made a very wearable muslin, which I actually wore on our fabric shopping expedition, so expect a post on those soon.

But my buy of the day was definitely this

It was impossible to photograph well as each of the white semi-circles are about 40cm (16").

This photograph shows better how they are offset from one another. And apologies again for the shadow.

Now such a dramatic graphic print obviously needs a plain (and large) canvas. I'm thinking of the Tessuti Pia.

I've been thinking about it for a while and while it is outside my comfort zone I definitely want to be a little more adventurous. I also figure that if it looks dreadful, I will be able to salvage a top and recut another skirt.

And it is black and white and the Monthly Stitch are having mono-sewn month so that fits. It will also be my Make a Garment a Month for July. And it is my birthday early in August and would make a great birthday dress. So it ticks lots of boxes.

What do you think? Is the Pia a good choice? Have you made it? Or do you have any other suggestions that might suit my very dramatic fabric?

The grape dress

This dress almost didn't get made. You see when I first saw, and bought, this fabric, I thought it had a random swirly pattern. See what I mean?

However, when I was ironing it, after prewashing, I realised that they are actually grapes! Yikes, I wasn't sure that I actually wanted a dress with grapes on it.

But I did keep coming back to it and eventually made it into this

I only had a metre of the grapes fabric so I used some black textured cotton for the back.

This was made using KS2627 again, with self drafted tulip sleeves. This pattern is also free so if you're looking for a good, basic shift pattern give it a go.

I used this excellent tutorial from sewmanyseams. I also used both fabrics in the sleeves.

Checking out those grapes. Or perhaps realising that i did actually have shoes on this time....

I have used this pattern several times already. The first time I started with a combination of size L and XL. Then I used M and L. I have now decided that I'm going to do an FBA on the size M.

I have come to this realisation because on this one I took it up another couple of centimetres at the shoulder seams and everything fits better, especially the sleeves. Although of course this also raised the bust darts which then had to be lowered on the actual dress after they had already been sewn:)

I also think this soft drapey rayon it actually too lightweight for a dress. It probably would have been better as a blouse. And this pattern will make great simple woven Ts once I've done that FBA.

Oh, well. The dress is extremely cool and comfortable and easy to wear.